A certificate of authenticity (COA) is only as good as the company that issued it. For valuable autographs, rely on third-party authentication from the major authenticators (PSA/DNA, JSA and Beckett Authentication Services), whose certificates and holograms can be verified online. Buy from reputable dealers, check the certificate number on the authenticator's website, and be wary of COAs from the seller themselves.
Autographs are among the most faked collectibles, and a convincing signature with a fancy certificate can still be worthless. Authentication is how you separate real from fake. Here is how it works.
What a COA really proves
A certificate of authenticity is a statement that an item is genuine. Its value depends entirely on who issued it:
- Third-party authenticators examine the signature independently and stand behind their opinion with a database you can check.
- Seller-issued COAs come from the person selling the item and prove very little on their own.
The major authenticators
| Authenticator | What you get | How to verify |
|---|---|---|
| PSA/DNA | Certificate or tamper-evident sticker with a serial number | Look up the number on PSA’s website |
| JSA (James Spence Authentication) | Letter or sticker with a serial number | Look up the number on JSA’s website |
| Beckett Authentication Services (BAS) | Letter or sticker with a serial number | Look up the number on Beckett’s website |
All three are widely accepted by auction houses and collectors. For high-value items, a full letter of authenticity (LOA) is generally stronger than a quick sticker review.
Witnessed and team authentication
- Witnessed autographs are signed in front of an authenticator’s representative and are the most reliable.
- Team and league programs (for example, official league authentication holograms) document game-used items and autographs at the source.
- Signing events and private signings often provide their own certificates, ideally with a third-party witness.
Red flags
- A signature that looks too perfect, too slow or traced.
- Many identical-looking signatures from the same seller.
- Prices far below other authenticated examples.
- Certificates from companies with no verification database.
- Stock photos instead of photos of the actual item.
How to buy safely
- Check the certificate number on the authenticator’s website before you pay, and make sure the description and photo match.
- Buy from reputable dealers and auction houses that guarantee authenticity.
- Use payment methods with buyer protection.
- Ask for authentication on unauthenticated items, or price in the cost of submitting it yourself.
Displaying autographs
Ink fades in light. Use UV-protective glass or acrylic for framed items and display cases, keep them away from direct sunlight, and avoid damp rooms. For balls, jerseys and photos, use cases designed for that item so nothing presses against the signature.
Common questions
Is a certificate of authenticity enough?
Not on its own. Anyone can print a COA. What matters is who issued it: a COA from a major third-party authenticator, verifiable online, carries far more weight than one from the seller.
What is the difference between PSA/DNA, JSA and Beckett?
All three are major third-party autograph authenticators. Each issues certificates and tamper-evident holograms that you can verify online. Collectors and auction houses widely accept all three.
What does witnessed authentication mean?
A representative watched the autograph being signed, for example at a signing event, and documented it. Witnessed autographs are the most reliable.
Can a signed item be authenticated after I buy it?
Yes. You can submit autographs to authenticators by mail or at shows. They will examine the signature and either certify it or decline it.